Who Is Chemena Kamali? Meet Fashion’s Rising Star

Chemena Kamali, now the creative director of Chloé, offers something truly personal in the Spring 2025 collection. There’s a feeling of nostalgia, yet it’s not just a repeat of the past—it’s boho-chic at its most desirable and modern.

Kamali’s work is inspired by the spirit of the 1970s, when fashion felt escapist, relatable, and full of interest. As someone who has studied past eras, I saw how her collection reflects a delicate balance between editorials and wearable beauty—like those captured by Helmut Newton and Deborah Tuberville.

What makes it feel alive is how it gently nods to the decades when Karl Lagerfeld shaped the house: 1963, 1983, 1992, and even 1997. Kamali visited Karl’s apartment at Place Saint-Sulpice, a true Art Deco masterpiece, and drew from the energy of its rooms and rare images.

The colour palette carries black, gold, and cream—his signature—but also magenta, fuchsia, beige, purple, and white. These saturated tones make the pieces bold yet soft, especially the billowing dresses, fil coupé blouses, and ribbed knit tops.

I remember viewing the jackets with scalloped edges, and the soft leather coats—it reminded me of a still from L’Amour, the movie that Andy Warhol and Paul Morrissey filmed in September 1970. The vibe feels both airy and grounded.

The show carried strong motifs, but nothing felt forced. The core looks—denim pants, Bermudas, and floaty blouses—were perfectly accompanied by warm light and smooth transitions, echoing creative projects of photographers like Guy Bourdin and David Bailey.

As Kamali explains, her goal was not just to design clothing, but to create a parallel between eras and emotions. Standing in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, I could almost hear the past discussing the present. Every stitch felt like a soft conversation between the old house and her creative mind.