Discover Kandy: Sri Lanka’s Cultural Heart and Hill Country

When I first reached Kandy, I was struck by how calm this central Sri Lankan city felt even at 500 metres above sea level. The cooler climate softens the usual island heat, and the blend of cultural heritage with tea-country charm reminded me of Chiang Mai in Thailand or Luang Prabang in Laos.

Strolling around Central Lake—often linked to the old legend of the Sea of Milk—I wandered past colonial buildings, chatted with friendly tuk-tuk drivers, and dodged street vendors selling sunglasses and harem pants. The city’s UNESCO World Heritage identity becomes clearer as you connect its stories to places like Polonnaruwa, Anuradhapura, and Jaffna.

One August, I watched the Esala Perahera, the centuries-old Festival of the Tooth, held over ten days and ending on Nikini Poya Day. From balconies and shops near Queens Hotel, I saw Kandyan dancers, thunderous drumming, and majestic, decorated elephants moving in rhythm—an unforgettable experience despite the crowded streets.

Into the Hills

A short tuk-tuk ride out of the city leads to rolling countryside, where boutique hotels overlook valleys stretching toward Nanu Oya, Hatton, Ella, and Haputale. The journey winds through tea plantations, pine forests, waterfalls, and neatly kept vegetable plots, each turn revealing a fresh layer of hill-country scenery.

The train ride from Kandy is the true highlight—one of the most scenic in the world. While minibuses linking Colombo, Galle, and the south coast are convenient, nothing compares to watching mist drift across the hills as the train glides beyond the city. Even with just 48 hours, Kandy reveals its heart with ease.

Start at the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic

I always advise first-time visitors to begin at the Temple of the Sacred Tooth, where a golden-roofed shrine holds a revered casket said to protect Buddha’s sacred tooth. Set on the north shore of Kandy Lake, the complex—once part of the 1687 royal palace—carries layers of history, including memories of the 1998 bomb attack that scarred its wooden structure.

Inside, I joined pilgrims, travellers, and non-Buddhists weaving among pastel lotus flowers, ancient tusks, and the dagoba-shaped casket enshrined in a separate chamber. The walls glow with 18th-century paintings depicting past lives, while the preserved remains of beloved elephants like Raja add emotional depth.
Tickets, sold only in person on the day, give full access to the courtyards and halls where footwear must be removed. Despite its past hardships, the temple still stands strong, carrying centuries of devotion.

Step Back in Time at Royal Bar & Hotel

In Kandy, I’m often drawn to this colonial landmark, where a quiet veranda and charming balcony create the feeling of slipping into another era. Inside, the rooms are warmed by botanical art, vintage relics, and black-and-white photos that feel like family heirlooms.

Drinks, Food, and Stories

I love settling in with a G&T or local arrack while watching kottu being prepared behind the bar. The place feels like a living tavern, where conversations flow as easily as the drinks—often touching on travel, literature, and writers like Sonali Deraniyagala, Martin Wickramasinghe, and Roma Tearne.

Wandering Nearby

Just outside, I often stop by bookshops like Jeya Book Centre on Colombo Street, picking up a good biography before returning to the riverside peace of Jetwing Kandy Gallery. With its 26-room layout, serene spaces, pool, and warm Sri Lankan breakfasts, it offers the perfect blend of city convenience and quiet retreat.

Details That Make the Stay Special

• Bedrooms dressed in soft tones—cream, taupe, navy—paired with colourful patterns

• Five-star touches: mini bar, robes, spacious bathrooms with bathtubs

• Peaceful evenings on the sun terrace or deck, sometimes accompanied by traditional drumming and dance

Local Eats and Day Trips

A short walk away, the Kandyan Muslim Hotel remains my favourite spot for crisp samosas, chicken curry, and flaky paratha—simple dishes perfected over a century of honest service. On quieter days, I take short journeys to places like the ancient Gonawatta caves, where faint 2nd-century BC inscriptions whisper stories far older than the city.